Some Malukans call Seram ‘Nusa Ina’ (Mother Island), believing that all life sprang from ‘Nunusaku’, a mythical peak ambiguously located in the island’s western mountains. The best known of Seram’s indigenous minority tribes, the Nua-ulu (‘upper-river’) or Alifuro people, sport red-bandana headgear and were headhunters as recently as the 1940s. The tribe lives in Seram’s wild, mountainous interior where thick forests are alive with cockatoos and colourful parrots. Seeing them usually requires a masochistic trek into the remote Manusela National Park, for which you’ll need guides and extra permits. Seram’s greatest tourist attraction is dramatic Teluk Sawai on the northern coast.