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Baranusa port

The second-largest island of the Alor group is way off the beaten track. A daily ferry from Kalabahi docks at Baranusa, the island’s sleepy main town, with a straggle of coconut palms, a homestay, and a couple of general stores. Smouldering Gunung Sirung (1372m) draws a few hearty climbers each year. From Baranusa take a truck to Kakamauta and walk for three hours to Sirung’s crater. Bring water from Baranusa and stay with the kepala desa (50,000Rp) in Kakamauta.

Pantar is also home to the area’s newest and most upscale dive resort. Alor Divers, built and operated by a French-Slovenian couple on the island’s eastern shore, caters exclusively to divers and their plus-ones. Guests stay a minimum of six nights, in smart, thatched bungalows, and dive at least twice daily. Orcas, sperm and pilot whales migrate off the west coast in June and December.

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