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Located 18km east of Soe is Kefa’s last head-hunting village and one of the area’s best attractions. A trail begins 1km from where the bemo will drop you off on the main road. Stroll past corn and bean fields and hop over a meandering stream and you’ll reach scattered ume bubu (traditional beehive huts), home to 52 families that have lived here for nine generations. Parents still bury their baby’s placenta in the centre of their hut, and the village is protected by a native rock fort, which abuts a sheer cliff. At the cliff’s edge you’ll find a 200-year-old banyan tree and a totem pole where shamans once met with warriors before they left on head-hunting expeditions. The wise ones consulted chicken eggs and their wooden staff before predicting if the warriors would prevail. Villagers are warm and welcoming, and break out their looms at the village lopo (meeting place) for weaving demonstrations upon request. It is so peaceful here that it’s hard to believe they were taking heads just two generations ago.

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