Krakatau may have come closer to destroying the planet than any other volcano in recent history, when it erupted in 1883. Tens of thousands were killed either by the resulting tidal wave or by the pyroclastic flows that crossed 40km of ocean to incinerate Sumatran coastal villages. Afterwards all that was left was a smouldering caldera where a cluster of uninhabited islands had once been. Perhaps peace had come, thought local villagers. But Krakatau, like all scrappy villains, re-awoke in 1927 and resulting eruptions built a new volcanic cone since christened Anak Krakatau (Child of Krakatau). It’s estimated that Anak Krakatau is growing by around 5m every year.
Tours to the island launch from West Java or from Kalianda on the Sumatran coast. Organised day trips with Arie Tour & Travel in Bandarlampung cost US$242 per person (based on two people). Hotel Beringin in Kalianda can also organise tours for 690,000Rp.
You can also join up with weekenders chartering boats from Canti, a fishing village outside of Kalianda, or from Pulau Sebesi. Charters usually cost around 1,000,000Rp for up to 15 people. There are regular opelet from Kalianda to Canti (7000Rp), and an ojek from Kalianda to Canti is around 20,000Rp.