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The charming village of Ohoidertawun surveys a lovely bay that becomes a vast, white-sand flat at low tide when craftsmen sit in the palm shade carving out canoes. An elfin church and pyramidal mosque coexist harmoniously. A ‘holy tree’ on the waterfront beside Savana Cottages is believed to enforce peace or bind relationships. And it seems to work an intangible magic on visitors who are frequently mesmerised by this wonderfully peaceful little place. A footpath and stairway leads north to Ohoider Atas village. At low tide you can splash across the sand flats past small caves cut in the limestone cliffs (some contain human bones). After around 25 minutes you’ll begin to notice red-and-orange petroglyphs painted on the cliff faces. Although some designs look new, many are ancient and their origins baffle archaeologists.