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Located 15km west of the scrappy town of Blangkejeran, the small village of Kedah has seen very few visitors since the conflict in Aceh, making it ripe for off-the-beaten-track travel. At the northern edge of Gunung Leuser National Park, Kedah is a magnificent starting point for treks into the jungle, which is home to orangutans, gibbons and other exotic wildlife, birds and plants.

Rainforest Lodge is run by the popular Mr Jali, with simple but pleasant bungalows in beautiful jungle surrounds. The lack of electricity adds greatly to its charm. Getting to the lodge is quite the rollicking adventure. Firstly, get to Kedah village and ask around for Mr Jali who lives in a house halfway up the village street; everybody knows him and can point out his house. The Rainforest Lodge is a good hour’s walk from here (motorbikes can just about make it along the track but not cars) and is literally in the middle of nowhere. It’s a very good idea to let him know in advance that you’re coming. He can organise jungle treks for around 350,000Rp per day, including food, guide and park permit.

To get here catch a bus to Blangkejeran, from where you can take a motorbike taxi (50,000Rp, 20 minutes) to Kedah.

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