Halmahera, Tidor, Soasio
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Above the southernmost edge of Tidore’s capital, Soasio, lies the sparse, overgrown remnants of Benteng Tohula, Tidore’s 17th-century Spanish fort. This is exactly what you want from a ruin – overgrown, crumbling fortress walls and spectacular views of Halmahera and Soasio. You’ll have to navigate the reasonably sturdy wooden and bamboo ladder to get to the top, but it’s well worth it. Around 200m north the Sonyine Malige Sultan’s Memorial Museum displays the sultan’s throne and giant spittoons, plus the royal crown topped with cassowary feathers. The crown is considered as magical as Ternate’s mahkota. To enter the musem, you’ll have to first find the curator, Umar Muhammad, who works at the DIKNAS office in the Dinas Pendidikan dan Kebudayan building, 2km north. Umar has been known to demand rather hefty entry fees of up to 100,000Rp.
A block inland from the museum, sturdy whitewashed base bastions are all that remain of the original kraton royal citadel (Istana Sultan), which now contains an unfinished contemporary palace-villa with a garish blue roof. There’s a new BNI branch with an ATM here too; the island’s only place to get or change cash.