Pyracantha Firethorn   Rosaceae

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Pyracantha is a genus of thorny evergreen large shrubs in the family Rosaceae, with common names Firethorn or Pyracantha. They are native to an area extending from Southeast Europe east to Southeast Asia, resemble and are related to Cotoneaster, but have serrated leaf margins and numerous thorns (Cotoneaster is thornless).

The plants reach up to six metres tall. The seven species have white flowers and either red, orange, or yellow berries (more correctly pomes). The flowers are produced during late spring and early summer; the pomes develop from late summer, and mature in late autumn.


Pyracantha angustifolia. Southwest China.
Pyracantha atalantioides. Southern China.
Pyracantha coccinea (Scarlet firethorn). Italy east to Asia Minor.
Pyracantha crenatoserrata. Central China.
Pyracantha crenulata. Himalaya.
Pyracantha koidzumii. Taiwan.
Pyracantha rogersiana. Yunnan.

Pyracanthas are valuable ornamental plants, grown in gardens for their decorative flowers and fruit, often very densely borne. Their dense thorny structure makes them particularly valued in situations where an impenetrable barrier is required. The aesthetic characteristics of pyracanthas plants, in conjunction with their home security qualities, makes them a considerable alternative to artificial fences and walls. They are also a good shrub for a wildlife garden, providing dense cover for roosting and nesting birds, summer flowers for bees and an abundance of berries as a food source. Pyracantha berries are not poisonous as commonly thought; although they are very bitter, they are edible when cooked and are sometimes made into jelly. In the UK and Ireland Pyracantha and the related genus Cotoneaster are valuable sources of nectar when often the bees have little other forage during the June Gap.
zone 7-10b

Firethorn, Pyracantha

Portulacaria afra

Portulacaria afra Dwarf Jade Plant   Portulacaria
Dwarf Jade Plant, Portulacaria-afra
Portulacaria afra, also known as Dwarf Jade Plant, Elephant’s Food, Elephant Bush, and Spekboom in Afrikaans, is a small-leaved succulent found in South Africa.

It is a soft-wooded, semi-evergreen upright shrub or small tree, usually 2.5 to 4.5 or more meters tall. Similar in appearance to the Jade Plant ( Crassula argentea or C. arborea, family Crassulaceae, order Rosales or Saxifragales ), P. afra has smaller and rounder pads and more compact growth (shorter internodal spaces, down to even 1.5 mm). It is much hardier, faster growing, more loosely branched, and has more limber tapering branches than Crassula.
Distribution and Habitat

It is common in the East of South Africa. It is also found in the Karoo of the western Cape.

The Spekboom is found most prolifically within a specific habitat known as Thicket, which locally is often called noorsveld, after the high number of succulent Euphorbia species, which is often called noors plants.
Carbon Sequestration Ability

It is capable of either C3 or CAM carbon fixation, depending on factors such as the season and the age of the leaves. In the wilds of South Africa, large plants do survive the cutting frosts of bitter winters by growing dense enough to provide their own natural cover. Drought tolerant and fire resistant, it will endure desert sun and heat which the jade plant will not.

It is popular as an indoor bonsai and as a hardy xeriscaping plant.

Cuttings root very easily in most potting media.
zone 10a-11

Polyscias fruticosa

Polyscias fruticosa Ming Aralia Cikra-cikri Araliaceae
Ming Aralia, Polyscias-fruticosa,  Cikra-cikri
Polyscias fruticosa, or Ming Aralia, is a perennial dicot evergreen shrub or dwarf tree native to India. The plant grows fairly slowly but can reach up to 1 to 2 meters in height. The leaves are of a dark green pigment, glossy in texture, and are tripinnate and appear divided. Individual leaves vary from narrowly ovate to lanceolate and are about 10 cm long.

The Ming Aralia is widely cultivated in several countries of southeastern Asia and the tropical islands of the Pacific region. It was originally located in Polynesia and thrives in environments of medium humidity, with temperatures varying from 16-29⁰C (60-85⁰F).
Genus: Polyscias

The name Polyscias means many-shaded, in reference to the foliage found on these plants. Their stalks carry compound leaves with up to seven (or more) opposite leaflets. In several species the leaves are deeply lobed. There are about six species of the genus Polyscias which are actively cultivated. The genus contains a variety of tropical plants which include about 80 species from the Pacific islands and Southeast Asia.
Family: Araliaceae

The family, Araliaceae, to which the Polyscias genus including Ming Aralia belongs, gives rise to a multitude of trees or shrubs that contain gum and resin ducts. As a whole, the family contains plants that have leaves of alternate, palmately or pinnately compound or simple, with stipules. The inflorescences are generally umbellate, and often arranges in compound umbels, caouttules, panicles or races. They possess flowers of smaller size than the dioecious which are bisexual or unisexual. This family also includes a multitude of popular house plants, including English ivy, as well as the herb ginseng. Araliaceae is known as the ginseng family, which is where the traits of the Ming Aralia spice and medical herb originate. Plants of this family can be found throughout the Neotropics, for the greater part in mountainous regions and much less in the lowlands.

Besides being a house plant…

In Asian countries, the leaves of the Polyscias fruticosa are used as a tonic, anti-inflammatory, antitoxin, and an antibacterial ointment. They have also been proven to be an aid in digestion. The root is also used as a diuretic, febrifuge, anti-dysentery, and is employed for neuralgia and rheumatic pains. Alongside with medicinal purposes, Polyscias fruticosa is also used as an ornamental plant and a spice.

A recent study on this plant by Vo Duy Hunan and colleagues, has afforded two known oleanolic acid saponins from the leaves, and polyacetylenes from the roots. This shows antibacterial and antifungal activities. The volatile leaf oils were also studied and isolated to find eight new oleanolic acid saponins, named polysciosides A to H, and three known saponins.
[edit] House Plant Care

When considering this plant for home aesthetics you should keep in mind the optimum Polyscias fruticosa need full sun to partial shade or high interior lighting. When grown in the greenhouse, the soil mixture should consist of two parts peat moss to two parts loam to one part sand or perlite. When watering, keep in mind that the plant ought to be kept moist and should never be allowed to dry thoroughly. Also note that during the winter months, water should be restricted, but the plant should never be allowed to dry out completely. The plants should be fertilized only three times during the growing season using a balanced fertilizer diluted to half the strength recommended on the label. Since the plants are fairly slow growers, very little pruning is needed to keep the desired form. However, remember that unlike plants that branch sideways, the Ming Aralia grows vertically. Trimming is useful in keeping the desired height as well as shape. The tips are trimmed in order to encourage more rapid branching and thickening of the trunk. The joints, closely set, then produce a thick growth of branches and a dense covering of leaves, which is an ideal look for this particular plant. The stems weave back and forth, creating a complex interlocking arrangement. As the plant ages, the lower branches die off, leaving a corky surface that is gnarled where the branches had been. This appearance is what attracts many people to adopting these plants for decoration of their homes and offices.
zone 10a-12

Myrciaria cauliflora, Jabuticaba

Myrciaria cauliflora Jabuticaba Jabuticaba Myrtaceae


Jabuticaba, Myrciaria cauliflora

The Jabuticaba (Myrciaria cauliflora (Mart.) O.Berg.) (also called Brazilian Grape Tree, Jaboticaba, Jabotica, Guaperu, Guapuru, Hivapuru, Sabará and Ybapuru) is a fruit-bearing tree in the family Myrtaceae native to Minas Gerais in southeastern Brazil grown for the purple, grape-like fruits it produces. Other related species in the genus Myrciaria, often referred to by the same common name, are native to Brazil, Argentina, Paraguay, and Bolivia. The fruit is purplish black, with a white pulp; it can be eaten raw or be used to make jellies and drinks(plain juice or wine).
The fruit tree (named jabuticabeira in Portuguese) has salmon-colored leaves when they are young, turning green posteriorly. It is a very slow growing tree which prefers moist, lightly acidic soils for best growth. It is widely adaptable, however, and grows satisfactorily even on alkaline beach-sand type soils, so long as they are tended and irrigated. Its flowers are white and grow directly from its trunk in a cauliflorous habit. Naturally the tree may flower and fruit only once or twice a year, but when continuously irrigated it flowers frequently, and fresh fruit can be available year round in tropical regions.

The fruit is 3-4 cm in diameter with one to four large seeds, borne directly on the main trunks and branches of the plant, lending a distinctive appearance to the fruiting tree. It has a thick, purple, astringent skin that covers a sweet, white, or rosy pink gelatinous flesh. Common in Brazilian markets, jaboticabas are largely eaten fresh; their popularity has been likened to that of grapes in the US. Fresh fruit may begin to ferment 3 to 4 days after harvest, so they are often used to make jams, tarts, strong wines, and liqueurs. Due to the extremely short shelf-life, fresh jaboticaba fruit is very rare in markets outside of areas of cultivation. Traditionally, an astringent decoction of the sun-dried skins has been used as a treatment for hemoptysis, asthma, diarrhoea, and gargled for chronic inflammation of the tonsils.

Several potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory anti-cancer compounds have been isolated from the fruit. One that is unique to the fruit is jaboticabin.
In Brazil the fruit of several species, namely M. jaboticaba (Vell.) O.Berg, M. tenella (DC.) O.Berg, and M. trunciflora O.Berg, share the same common name. While all jaboticaba species are subtropical, all can tolerate mild, brief frosts, and some species may be marginally more cold-tolerant. Commercial cultivation of the fruit in the Northern Hemisphere is more restricted by extremely slow growth and the short shelf-life of fruit than by temperature requirements. Grafted plants may bear fruit in 5 years; seed grown trees may take 10 to 20 years to bear fruit, though their slow growth and small size when immature make them popular as bonsai or container ornamental plants in temperate regions. Jaboticabas are fairly adaptable to various kinds of growing conditions, tolerating sand or rich topsoil. They are intolerant of salty soils or salt spray. They are tolerant of mild drought, though fruit production may be reduced, and irrigation will be required in extended or severe droughts.

The name is derived from the Tupi word Jabuti (tortoise) + Caba (place), meaning the place where you find tortoises.

Cultural aspects

The tree appears as a charge on the coat of arms of Contagem, Minas Gerais, Brazil.

Jaboticaba has become a widely used species in the art of bonsai, particularly in Taiwan and parts of the Caribbean.

Jabuticaba, Myrciaria cauliflora

Jabuticaba, Myrciaria cauliflora Jabuticaba, Myrciaria cauliflora Jabuticaba, Myrciaria cauliflora

Ficus Salicifolia

Ficus Salicifolia willow-leaf   Moraceae

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The willow-leaf fig is known in bonsai as Ficus Salicifolia and Ficus Neriifolia none of witch is scientific names. The true Ficus salicifolia is a native of South Africa and has a willow shaped leaf similar to our willow-leaf fig but the leaf is larger and the tree does not grow as compact.
Ficus salicifolia

The tree grows to about 15 feet in my area and will produce some aerial roots if the canopy is allowed to spread, the trunk will develop a buttress with nice surface roots, the bark is grey although it will become red if it is exposed to the sun. The leaves are alternate, lance late, although the new leaves are curved and tawny in color as they mature they straighten and develop a healthy green color. The green figs are small about .25″ turning a brick red with brown spots when ripe.
Growing Conditions

Our growing conditions in Vero Beach are subtropical, we get frost and occasionally we will have a hard freeze this usually lasts for one night. All of my bonsai are growing outdoors therefore it is necessary to cover them when we expect a freeze. Since my bonsai are growing on pedestals I have made a bag using agricultural winterization cloth that will fit over each plant, it is easy to put on and easy to remove.

Since Ficus Salicifolia is succulent it can go for long periods without water, if the plant is not watered in a reasonable time it will drop its leaves. It can live in this condition for a short time if it is healthy and in a humid environment. Ideally the plant should be watered thoroughly and the soil be allowed to approach dryness before the next watering. Any well draining bonsai soil is a good growing medium for this Ficus.

We do get a lot of rain in Summer which is not a problem if you use a well draining soil, since our Winters are dry, this can be good since the plants are not growing as much.

Most Ficus are not heavy feeders but they do respond to regular applications of a balanced fertilizer, if you use a liquid plant food it is important to apply it on a regular schedule during the entire growing season. A slow release formula that may last three months or more might be better for someone that does not have the time to maintain this strict schedule. Always follow the directions on the label.

They can be grown indoors if given the right environment. Light is usually the limiting factor but humidity, air circulation and temperature are just as important if you want to keep the plant healthy.

All plants are started from cuttings you can use tip or cuttings as large as you have available. I start mine in perlite but any well draining soil will do, early spring has proved to be the best time to take cuttings. Large cuttings are started in 6″ pots and are allowed to grow in them until the following spring before transplanting to your normal soil. It takes about twelve weeks for them to root in my environment. If you are rooting them under mist it is important to have good air circulation to reduce the possibility of fungus.

Air layering is another method to propagate this plant, large caliper trunks can be used thus reducing the time required to produce an old looking bonsai.

Another method is used to create a group planting from a root cutting. When the root ball is cut from a large bonsai the roots that were removed will sprout if they are planted so that the top of the root ball is even with the soil surface. After the first year of growth remove any trunks that will not be needed for your forest, allow the trunks that will be your main trees to grow unchecked in order to develop a large caliper, the remaining trunks should be shortened accordingly to create a variety of sizes for your forest.
Insects and Diseases

Insects and diseases have not been a problem if the plant is healthy and good air circulation and light is provided. Over crowding is the usual cause of fungus, fungicides can be used as a preventive or if the plant is heavily infested leaf removal may be the best solution. If fungicides are used always follow the directions on the label.
Creating Bonsai

This plant can be used for any style but since it is an upright tree it is not normally used for cascades. It develops a trunk with a flared base and heavy surface roots. When cut back hard new buds appear over much of the trunk so that you have many choices for selecting branches. Aerial roots are a plus if you wish to create a banyan style, a humid environment and a large canopy of foliage will encourage their formation. The direction of the roots can be controlled by placing a split soda straw between the root and the soil as soon as the root appears.

It is important to split the straw its entire length so it can be removed after the root grows through the center of the straw into the soil.

When styling this tree you can be as drastic with your root pruning and top pruning as you wish to create the style you want, this plant is very forgiving, ideal material for the beginning bonsai artist. Wiring is only required for the initial styling after that the clip and grow method is usually used to develop the bonsai. Since the roots can be drastically reduced it is possible to plant the tree in a very shallow pot, which is very appropriate for a banyan style. Being able to drastically reduce the height of the plant it is possible to create a low ratio of tree height to trunk caliper. This bonsai is usually seen as a single trunk upright style, but it is ideal for group plantings, literati, driftwood etc.

Start the styling by finding the front of the tree, first look at the trunk if it is straight any side could be used as the front, if it is slanted it could lean to the right or to left but never backwards. If the trunk is curved it is usually viewed from the side that shows the most interesting movement.

The length of the trunk is determined by several factors. A short tree will make the trunk look bigger and older than a tall tree with the same size caliper; a tall skinny tree looks juvenile. If the trunk is straight shorten it to the point where the taper stops, if the trunk is curved you may want to continue up the trunk until it becomes uninteresting.

Next remove the soil so that the surface roots are exposed, examine them from all sides pick the side with the most impressive roots and flare of the base, ideally the surface roots will be in proportion to the size of the trunk and will radiate out from the trunk. Choose the side with the most pleasing appearance.

The arrangement of the branches is sometimes determined by what is available. If your plant has a lot of branches to pick from, start by choosing your lowest branch, which should be on the right or left side. The second branch should be on the opposite side and slightly higher except on a banyan style, both branches should come slightly forward. Ideally a back branch will start between these two main branches. The other branches will revolve around the trunk and will become closer together as they near the apex. No branch should be allowed to grow directly above the one below it and no branch should be heavier than any one below it.

Wire all branches after you have selected the ones you want and adjust them to suit the style you have chosen. Be sure to remove the wires before they damage the bark, this may be as soon as a few weeks, depending on your growing conditions.

Pot your plant the same as any other bonsai keeping in mind that it is always possible to choose the correct size pot because you may reduce the root ball to fit any pot. Choosing the correct pot for your bonsai is very important. The pot should compliment the tree and be in proportion to the size of the tree. The length of the pot should be approximately two thirds to three fourths the height or width of the tree whichever is greater. The depth of the pot should be large enough to accommodate the roots the height should approximate the caliper of the trunk. Peculiarities of the specific tree may require you to deviate from these guidelines. The pot should always balance the tree; a massive looking tree will need a heavy looking pot while a younger looking tree will need a more delicate pot. Literate style is usually potted in a shallow round pot, banyan style looks good in shallow oval pots, blooming plants are enjoyed for their flowers therefore a glazed pot could be used to compliment the color of the flowers and cascades need a tall pot.

Make sure the plant is securely wired in the pot and always plant in dry well draining bonsai soil. Study the bonsai and make any adjustments you may need to make before you water it. It is not necessary to soak the soil immediately, in my humid environment I sometimes wait until the next day before drenching the soil.

It is important to give the bonsai proper aftercare, it should be placed in an area where it will get filtered sun and good air circulation the soil should be kept moist but not wet

Refinement should start as soon as the plant is healthy and growing vigorously. First remove all the leaves and the unwanted branches, shorten the branches to fit in your silhouette. After new buds appear it will be necessary to remove all the unwanted buds that have sprouted on the trunk and branches, keep any new buds that are needed to complete the design. Rewire all primary and secondary branches that need to be repositioned. Study the design and remove any growth that is too long or is growing outside the silhouette, remove all terminal buds except those you wish to lengthen.

The next flush of growth will develop with smaller leaves and if pinching is continued on a regular schedule throughout the growing season the leaves will remain small. Pinching is the removal of the young tender growth at the end of each branch, it may be the terminal bud or it may be longer and include several leaves. The leaves on this plant are alternate and revolve around the stem. There is a bud at the base of each leaf, if we pinch back to a leaf that is growing on the side of a branch the new bud that sprouts will grow on that side. Therefore it is possible to direct the terminal growth of each branch in the direction we wish by pinching back to the leaf that is growing in the direction.

When pinching always keep in mind the shape you are trying to create and pinch accordingly. When looking at a branch from the top it should have a triangular appearance. The side view will have a flat bottom with no growth extending downwards, the top should be contoured so that the highest part should be closest to the trunk, and the end of the branch will taper to a point.

When working with mame bonsai we sometimes need to shorten a branch to a leaf that is not growing in the direction we desire. We can correct this by wiring the tip of the branch and twisting it in the direction you want the terminal bud to grow. The wire needs to be removed shortly after the new buds starts to grow.

willow-leaf, Ficus-salicifolia




Cemara Laut


Casuarina is a genus of 17 species in the family Casuarinaceae, native to Australasia, southeast Asia, and islands of the western Pacific Ocean. It was once treated as the sole genus in the family, but has been split into three genera (see Casuarinaceae).
Fruit of C. equisetifolia

They are evergreen shrubs and trees growing to 35 m tall. The foliage consists of slender, much-branched green to grey-green twigs bearing minute scale-leaves in whorls of 5–20. The flowers are produced in small catkin-like inflorescences; the flowers are simple spikes,. Most species are dioecious, but a few are monoecious. The fruit is a woody, oval structure superficially resembling a conifer cone made up of numerous carpels each containing a single seed with a small wing. The generic name is derived from the Malay word for the cassowary, kasuari, alluding to the similarities between the bird’s feathers and the plant’s foliage,[4] though the tree is presently called “Rhu” in current standard Malay.

Casuarina species are a food source of the larvae of hepialid moths; members of the genus Aenetus, including A. lewinii and A. splendens, burrow horizontally into the trunk then vertically down. Endoclita malabaricus also feeds on Casuarina. The noctuid Turnip Moth is also recorded feeding on Casuarina.

Casuarictin, a type of tannin, is found in the species within the genus.

Cemara, Casuarina

Calliandra haematocephala

Calliandra haematocephala Powder puff tree Kaliandra, Lusiana Leguminosaceae

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Calliandra haematocephala, Powder puff, Lusiana, Kaliandra A low,slow-growing shrub, or occasionally taller to 10 ft (3 m) or so, this species is distinctive in having leaves with only 4 to 8 rather large leaflets; these are smooth and glossy and up to 2 1/2 in (6 cm) long. A native of Honduras, Guatemala and southern Mexico, the plant is dotted with globular flowerheads through much of the year.
Color varies from almost white to deep reddish pink, the bases of the flowers are usually paler.
Cultivation: Despite their often delicate appearance, many calliandras are tough, long-lived plants thriving in any well-drained, fertile soil in full sun.
Propagation is easiest from seed, but some produce few or no pods in cultivation and can be grown from cuttings.

Calliandra haematocephala, Powder puff, Lusiana, Kaliandra

Bonsai Bougainvillea

Bougainvillea Bougainvillea Bunga kertas Nyctaginaceae

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Bougainvillea Bonsai

A Guide to Growing Bougainvillea Bonsai

Bougainvillea Bonsai is one of the most popular bonsai plants that you can find. It is a climbing plant that can grow as tall as thirteen feet. It is often grown in hanging baskets and when flowering can be a very showy plant. As a bonsai, it requires quite a lot of care and pruning. You will need to pay particular attention to its lighting, temperature, fertilizing, moisture and it will need to be repotted at regular growth intervals.

This bonsai is an evergreen plant which can be planted outside only if you live in an extremely warm location. The plant can never have temperatures which fall under 45 degrees. Bougainvillea bonsai prefers to be planted in full sunlight but you do have to be careful that the sun does not burn the leaves, particularly if it is right behind a glass window. Outside, keep it in as sunny a spot as you can find.

Like many bonsai plants, this one likes to be more on the dry side than the wet side, so do not over-water. Too much moisture can actually kill the plant. Still, it does need a little water at least every couple days to ensure continued growth. The exception is when it is flowering. At this time, some added water will be in order. As far as fertilizing goes, you will want to feed the Bougainvillea bonsai a lot–every ten to fourteen days is a real necessity for a healthy plant.

When it comes to pruning and sculpting your bonsai plant, you can do it anytime during the year. You may want to put it on a schedule where you prune it once a month or every six weeks. That way the plant won’t get straggly but will be more bushy. It is most common for the Bougainvillea bonsai to flower in the winter and early spring. Some plants do produce flowers almost year-round. The colors can vary enormously with a possibility for white, yellow, pink, red, scarlet, lavender, purple, orange and carmine. You can purchase your plant with either single or double blooms.

You can propagate the Bougainvillea bonsai using the cuttings you take from pruning the plant. Cuttings should be around six inches long. You should prepare the pots in advance with sand and fertilizer. Take off the bottom set of leaves and dip the cuttings in rooting hormones. Water the plant immediately after you gently pack down the soil. One thing to remember when growing this bonsai is that you should not plant it outside before it has developed roots. The cuttings will not do well if planted directly into the outside soil.

If you are going to plant your Bougainvillea outdoors you should dig a hole that is twice as wide as the root ball but exactly as deep. Gently place the plant in the center of the hole. Replace around one half of the soil, water the plant, and then replace the final amount of soil. Do not tap down the soil as the roots on this plant are very, very sensitive. If you want to get some instruction before you have to prune your Bougainvillea, many communities have bonsai clubs where gardeners help out newbies when it comes to learning how to prune properly.

The Bougainvillea bonsai got its name from Philibert Commerson in 1760. He was a botanist from France who first discovered the plant in Brazil. He named it after his friend and ship captain, Louis A. de Bougainville. Bougainville was an explorer from Canada who was also known as a mathematician and lawyer.

Bougainvillea, bunga kertas


Allamanda blancetii Allamanda Alamanda Apocynaceae

Alamanda violacea, Alamanda, Allamanda kakao


Alamanda violacea, Alamanda, Allamanda Family Apocynaceae.Exceptional among the species of this genus in having flowers colored other than yellow,
Allamanda blanchetii is of uncertain wild origin somewhere in South America.
It is similar in foliage to the common A. cathartica but is a less vigorous twiner that can easily be trained to a 6 ft (1.8 m) shrub.
The flowers, about 3 in (8 cm) across, are a somewhat dingy purplish mauve color but of heavy substance, borne freely .
Some recently released hybrid cultivars have blended its coloring (in diluted form) with the vigour of A. cathartica.
Cultivation: They grow in a sunny, sheltered position in rich soil, watering freely .
Prune heavily to maintain shape and encourage flowering.
Propagate from cuttings and watch for mites which disfigure the leaves.


Alamanda violacea, Alamanda, Allamanda , seed

Alamanda violacea, Alamanda, Allamanda , seed

Alamanda violacea, Alamanda, Allamanda , seed

Alamanda violacea, Alamanda, Allamanda , seed

– Bonsai or Dwarf Plants 31 Pages

 Bonsai or Dwarf Plants Tropical 30 Pages

Click on your favorite Plant

Acalypha-hispida Adenium obesum Allamanda
Bougainvillea Calliandra
Casuarina Coffea-arabica Delonix-regia Eugenia-uniflora
Ficus-benjamina Ficus-microcarpa Ficus-salicifolia Gardenia
Hamelia patens Hibiscus Iresine-herbstii
Ixora coccinea Jacaranda
Myrciaria cauliflora Polyscias-fruticosa Portulacaria-afra Punica-granatum


Rhaphiolepis-indica Thymus vulgaris