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Wektu Telu, Lombok’s animist-tinted form of Islam, was born in humble thatched mosques nestled in these Rinjani foothills. The best example is Masjid Kuno Bayan Beleq, next to the village of Baleq. Its low-slung roof, dirt floors and bamboo walls reportedly date from 1634, making this mosque the oldest on Lombok. Inside is a huge old drum which served as the call to prayer before PA systems. Ah, the good old days.