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Batuan’s recorded history goes back 1000 years, and in the 17th century its royal family controlled most of southern Bali. The decline of its power is attributed to a priest’s curse, which scattered the royal family to different parts of the island.

Just west of the centre, the twin temples of Pura Puseh and Pura Dasar are accessible studies in classic Balinese temple architecture. The carvings are elaborate and visitors are given the use of vermilion sarongs, which look good in photos.

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