A sprinkling of offbeat accommodation can be found amid Saparua’s shaggy forests and friendly villages. Here, spiny, football-sized durian are piled in the streets right in front of concrete homes brushed in soft pastels. And crystal-clear waters lap or crash the shore depending upon the season. Dugongs reportedly appear in Teluk Saparua and you might spot dolphins en route to uninhabited Pulau Molana, where you don’t need Hollywood riches to have a desert island all to yourself. In the wet season it can be torrential; in the dry it’s something like paradise.