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Capital of the region is the overgrown village of Agats, on the Aswet estuary. Due to the extraordinary tides and location, its streets are raised boardwalks which now support some (thankfully slow-moving) motorbike traffic as well as pedestrians. It’s a curious place to wander round, with markets, shops, mosque, churches and hideous monuments, just like any other Papuan town. Report to Polres Asmat with your surat jalan when you arrive. Bank BRI has a MasterCard and Cirrus ATM but you can’t guarantee it’ll be working.

Don’t miss the Museum Kebudayaan dan Kemajuan Asmat, which has a fantastic collection of Asmat art and artefacts, from bis poles and skulls to full-body dance outfits. Try to recruit an English-speaking guide as there is little interpretative information.

The government-run Hotel Assedu has clean rooms with comfy beds, almost-tasteful plastic flowers and the best restaurant in town (mains 18,000Rp to 30,000Rp).

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