|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Toraja Land |
|
 |
 |
|
Toraja Info |
The Toraja are an ethnic group indigenous to a mountainous region of South
Sulawesi, Indonesia. Their population is approximately 650,000, of which
450,000 still live in the regency of Tana Toraja ("Land of Toraja"). Most of
the population is Christian, and others are Muslim or have local animist
beliefs known as aluk ("the way"). The Indonesian government has recognized
this animist belief as Aluk To Dolo ("Way of the Ancestors").
The word toraja comes from the Bugis language's to riaja, meaning "people of
the uplands". The Dutch colonial government named the people Toraja in
1909.Torajans are renowned for their elaborate funeral rites, burial sites
carved into rocky cliffs, massive peaked-roof traditional houses known as
tongkonan, and colorful wood carvings. Toraja funeral rites are important
social events, usually attended by hundreds of people and lasting for several
days.
Before the 20th century, Torajans lived in autonomous villages, where they
practised animism and were relatively untouched by the outside world. In the
early 1900s, Dutch missionaries first worked to convert Torajan highlanders to
Christianity.
Religions: Protestant: 65%, Catholic: 177%, Islam: 6% and Torajan Hindu (Aluk
To Dolo): 6%.
When the Tana Toraja regency was further opened to the outside world in the
1970s, it became an icon of tourism in Indonesia: it was exploited by tourism
developers and studied by anthropologists. By the 1990s, when tourism peaked,
Toraja society had changed significantly, from an agrarian model — in which
social life and customs were outgrowths of the Aluk To Dolo—to a largely
Christian society.
Funeral rites
In Toraja society, the funeral ritual is the most elaborate and expensive
event. The richer and more powerful the individual, the more expensive is the
funeral. In the aluk religion, only nobles have the right to have an extensive
death feast. The death feast of a nobleman is usually attended by thousands
and lasts for several days. A ceremonial site, called rante, is usually
prepared in a large, grassy field where shelters for audiences, rice barns,
and other ceremonial funeral structures are specially made by the deceased
family. Flute music, funeral chants, songs and poems, and crying and wailing
are traditional Toraja expressions of grief with the exceptions of funerals
for young children, and poor, low-status adults.
The ceremony is often held weeks, months, or years after the death so that the
deceased's family can raise the significant funds needed to cover funeral
expenses.Torajans traditionally believe that death is not a sudden, abrupt
event, but a gradual process toward Puya (the land of souls, or afterlife).
During the waiting period, the body of the deceased is wrapped in several
layers of cloth and kept under the tongkonan. The soul of the deceased is
thought to linger around the village until the funeral ceremony is completed,
after which it begins its journey to Puya.
Another component of the ritual is the slaughter of water buffalo. The more
powerful the person who died, the more buffalo are slaughtered at the death
feast. Buffalo carcasses, including their heads, are usually lined up on a
field waiting for their owner, who is in the "sleeping stage". Torajans
believe that the deceased will need the buffalo to make the journey and that
they will be quicker to arrive at Puya if they have many buffalo. Slaughtering
tens of water buffalo and hundred of pigs using a machete is the climax of the
elaborate death feast, with dancing and music and young boys who catch
spurting blood in long bamboo tubes. Some of the slaughtered animals are given
by guests as "gifts", which are carefully noted because they will be
considered debts of the deceased's family.
There are three methods of burial: the coffin may be laid in a cave or in a
carved stone grave, or hung on a cliff. It contains any possessions that the
deceased will need in the afterlife. The wealthy are often buried in a stone
grave carved out of a rocky cliff. The grave is usually expensive and takes a
few months to complete. In some areas, a stone cave may be found that is large
enough to accommodate a whole family. A wood-carved effigy, called tau tau, is
usually placed in the cave looking out over the land. The coffin of a baby or
child may be hung from ropes on a cliff face or from a tree. This hanging
grave usually lasts for years, until the ropes rot and the coffin falls to the
ground.
Society
There are three main types of affiliation in Toraja society: family, class and
religion.
Family is the primary social and political grouping in Torajan society. Each
village is one extended family, the seat of which is a traditional Torajan
house. Each tongkonan has a name, which becomes the name of the village. The
familial dons maintain village unity. Marriage between distant cousins (fourth
cousins and beyond) is a common practice that strengthens kinship. Toraja
society prohibits marriage between close cousins (up to and including the
third cousin)—except for nobles, to prevent the dispersal of property.
Kinship is actively reciprocal, meaning that the extended family helps each
other farm, share buffalo rituals, and pay off debts.
Each person belongs to both the mother's and the father's families, children,
therefore, inherit household affiliation from both mother and father,
including land and even family debts. Children's names are given on the basis
of kinship, and are usually chosen after dead relatives.
Before the start of the formal administration of Toraja villages by the Tana
Toraja Regency, each Toraja village was autonomous. Relationship between
families was expressed through blood, marriage, and shared ancestral houses (tongkonan),
practically signed by the exchange of buffalo and pigs on ritual occasions.
Class affiliation
In early Toraja society, family relationships were tied closely to social
class. There were three strata: nobles, commoners, and slaves (slavery was
abolished in 1909 by the Dutch East Indies government). Class was inherited
through the mother. It was taboo, therefore, to marry "down" with a woman of
lower class. On the other hand, marrying a woman of higher class could improve
the status of the next generation.
Nobles, who were believed to be direct descendants of the descended person
from heaven, lived in tongkonans, while commoners lived in less lavish houses
(bamboo shacks called banua). Slaves lived in small huts, which had to be
built around their owner's tongkonan. Commoners might marry anyone, but nobles
preferred to marry in-family to maintain their status. Commoners and slaves
were prohibited from having death feasts. Wealth was counted by the ownership
of water buffaloes.
Slaves in Toraja society were family property. Sometimes Torajans decided to
become slaves when they incurred a debt, pledging to work as payment. Slaves
could be taken during wars, and slave trading was common. Slaves could buy
their freedom, but their children still inherited slave status. Slaves were
prohibited from wearing bronze or gold, carving their houses, eating from the
same dishes as their owners, or having sex with free women—a crime punishable
by death. |
|
On the road from Makassar to
Toraja |
  |
Imperial Hotel in Makassar
Traditional boatbuilding near Pare Pare
“The best Europian food in the world” |
  |
|
Lots of shells to buy on the coastroad
Nearly all the houses are on stilts(Buginese style} |
|
The Landscape look as Bali,
but than on one thousand meter above sealevel,
Sawa’s in the mountains... |
  |
  |
|
Funeral |
  |
  |
  |
|
Tau Tau |
  |
  |
|
Toraja houses,called Tonkonan |
   |
|
From Toraja back to Makassar |
  |
|
 |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|